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The Ancona to Split ferry across the Adriatic
From Ancona on the East coast of Italy, ferries regularly sail to Croatia, Albania, Corfu and Greece. It’s population reflects that, and I was served lunch by a delightful Albanian woman. She told me you can take your dog on ferries to Albania too. Ancona is a beautiful little city, worth some extra time for…
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Cookies save the day
Hours of tough bus replacement service today (Šibenik to Zagreb) were relieved by strawberry and ginger oat cookies. Baspie dog and human loved them. He was so good and patient, 6 hours on a coach floor with only one comfort break! These cookies are so simple to make and unsquashable, plus you can mess around…
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Railway Dog off to Parma
This surprisingly was the InterCity train from La Spezia to Parma. It slowly squealed its way northeast away from the scrubland of the hilly Mediterranean coast to the huge flat and fertile Po valley. So much track squealing that an English woman on the train, with a brain injury causing sound sensitivity, nearly had to…
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Protesting in La Spezia
I met these lovely Italian teachers and elders one evening protesting about the military going into schools in Italy and drumming up support and recruits for war. There is apparently no balancing peace education. Even in infant school. teachersforfuture It all started when I was taking photos of Garibaldi’s wonderful horse in La Spezia. I…
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Plants and towns of the Cinque Terre
In April the spring blooms were everywhere. The scent of Wisteria wafts around Levanto. On the trails there’s plentiful wild garlic, some thyme and oregano, and frequently rosemary is planted in public places – ideal for perking up camping cuisine. The small cobbled towns are delightful except for being packed, particularly at the weekend. April…
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Hiking the Cinque Terre – by train is the only way
The only way along the Cinque Terre coast between Levanto and La Spezia is by train. Even the tour groups have to go by rail. With an unlimited Interrail ticket, you just hop on and off to your heart’s content. The higher trails are lovely and empty, I didn’t see people for an hour or…
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Camp food in Lugano and a nighttime visitor
The cooker balanced on my book, food chopped on the base plastic of a shopping bag, matches from my mum’s collection, and dog starting off on his laid flat bed in the sunshine. At 4am we wondered what was snuffling and scrabbling in the outer tent. I found out in the dark when I put…
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A trip up Monte Lema
A post hike snooze in the sun, waiting for the local train back to the campsite
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Koblenz to Lugano, a long day for a dog
It’s 660km from Koblenz to Lugano, and according to Google maps faster by train than car. Baspie was an angel surviving the 8 hours 10 minutes of train journey, plus a further 20 mins on the suburban train. It was due to be 7:10, but we were delayed 90 minutes, then regained 30, by managing…