The only way along the Cinque Terre coast between Levanto and La Spezia is by train. Even the tour groups have to go by rail. With an unlimited Interrail ticket, you just hop on and off to your heart’s content.
The higher trails are lovely and empty, I didn’t see people for an hour or two at a time. Especially on this route up above Levanto where the air was so clear you could see the Alps and identify Mont Blanc.
Some of the high trails are not for the faint hearted. The market but rather overgrown trail down to Monterosso from high above Varnazza was exceptionally steep and covered in tiny scree. The human needed both hiking poles constantly to stop herself slipping even in the dry. Whereas the four legged friend was wondering what the problem was.
Railway Dog 
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