Railway Dog

Trains in Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia seem rather left off international rail apps, or even worse, have their trains listed incorrectly. Whether it’s Rail Europe, Rail Planner (Interrail/ Eurail) or Google maps, they are either empty or unreliable.

Lithuania, which does have trains listed on Rail Planner, doesn’t have many of those trains in reality, except in high season (July/August). At other times the East West line trains may just go very early in the morning and late at night.

In Latvia, a country where trains are not listed at all on the international rail apps, in the off season trains may only run at weekends, such as on the Liepaja line.

Surprisingly, Estonia, one of the tech capitals of the world, doesn’t have its train times fed into international rail apps either. But the trains do exist and are relatively fast.

Here are the main websites I’ve found useful for public transport in the Baltic states (some have corresponding apps):

• Lithuanian railways: LTG Link
• Latvian railways: LT
• Estonian passenger trains: Elron
• Estonian public transport

The lack of interest from the Baltic states in being at all helpful to international train travelers is beyond belief. Not only do most former border train crossings now have no connection, when they do there is no correspondence with the timetable in the neighbouring nation.

For example, Valga or Valka, is on the Latvian Estonian border. On the map, Valga looks about as uninspiring a town as you could hope to avoid, but oh no, you can’t. The first train from Latvia doesn’t get there till midday. Then there’s an enforced 4 hour wait there till the next train on into Estonia. So I will only arrive by train anywhere worth going to in Estonia in the evening or night. Examples include Elva for what could be nice hiking and wild camping, or Tartu and Tallinn for pretty cities. It will need an overnight stay somewhere to get to Lahemaa National Park by train and local bus, which is only a 3 hour drive north from Valga.

Once I got over the resentment, Valga is actually okay. There are large lockers for 1€ in the station which fit 2 backpacker packs or suitcases. It also has pristine toilets for 50c, paid to a suitably fearsome guardian, who wouldn’t be out of place as a hospital matron.

My favourite place in town is the park around the river with a multilingual cemetery on its north side. Once Railway Dog and I had had a wander there, I found myself photographing the international border, right next to the skate park. Next I popped into a comfortably European supermarket with a whole fridge area marked vegan. My mini backpack zip gave in, what with one too many bulging supplies one too many times. Right next door was a sports shop, with a good choice of replacements. Sorted!

Lastly in Valga, surprised to be a bit pushed for time, I went to Lilli Restoran, in a rather cute historic building. It was recommended by travel unity for dog-friendliness, and to my delight I found it had great vegan choice and labelling. Welcome at last! WiFi and charging points added to the excitement of my poke bowl, and there I write this now.

Alternative forms of transport

For improving on the cross border links between Lithuania and Latvia and Latvia and Lithuania, or to get them at all, other forms of transport than train might make things easier. In the case of Latvia to Lithuania, buses, lifts and taxis are the only possibility, bar hiking.

Bus

Google maps has some longer distance buses into Estonia from Valga listed that connect better with the Riga trains than the Estonian trains do. The Estonian public transport site above will give you a more reliable timetable. However, for people with an Interrail or Eurail ticket or a dog, these buses aren’t so helpful. That’s me on 2 counts.

Bus drivers with halitosis and a loathing for dogs abound in the Baltics in my experience. There are many gleefully enforced written and unwritten rules, to have half a chance of taking a dog on a longer distance bus. In Latvia at least, the dog needs a muzzle, vaccination certificates shown, to be held on your lap, and for you both to have a poor sense of smell and a thick skin. I’ve heard dogs aren’t allowed at all on cross border buses in the Baltics.

Taxi, Bolt or similar service

I’ve given in and started using Bolt when bus drivers are horrible or non existent. In the main towns it seems quite common. It has been a success in Siauliai, Liepaja, and Sigulda so far. On booking, I send a message saying I have a small good dog who will go on the floor. Sometimes there are pet options in Bolt, so I scroll down and have a look. Otherwise I just pick what is there.

Latvia to Lithuania: A fellow intrepid Interrailer took a Bolt taxi from Daugavpils in Latvia to Turmantas in Lithuania between working train stations. The route was convoluted and involved dirt roads and much back tracking, with the driver phoning a friend for help. Looking at the map I’m not surprised. There is no equivalent road to the unused train track. When I was later considering that route in the opposite direction, I would have taken a Bolt from Visaginas to Daugavpils, as there are main roads all the way, so it would be faster unless you are a crow or have your own train.