
At the unpromising building site end of a branch train line you walk on into the ancient cobbled town of Sibenik. Sited in a sunken river valley invaded by the sea, it is protected from storms. The massive natural harbour has a narrow flooded gorge entrance, “St Anthony’s Canal”.

The pedestrian old town is full of cobbled alleys (ulica), frequented by cats and small dogs, opening into small sunny squares where young children play and adults drink in cafés.

Ferries travel out to islands beyond the Canal. Dogs travel free and can go inside and out. Inside is smokey even though no one is smoking.

The ferry we went on to outer islands only had local people and supplies on apart from me. Tiny tractors with trailers come on board at the harbours to be loaded up with supplies for the shop or bar. Small lorries bring building supplies or come to empty all the septic tanks on an island and bring the contents back to Sibenik at the end of the day.







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